April 14, 2009

Pet Canary Care Guide

  • Canary - An Introduction to the Variations
  • Breeding Canaries

Canary - An Introduction to the Variations

Canaries are delightful pet birds pets that don't require as much attention from their owners as other pet bird species. Often kept in pairs, Canaries are usually thought of as being sweet yellow songbirds, although there are many other variations in color. Canaries are divided into groups by color, type and song, depending upon which trait is the most dominant. Color canaries colors include new color and red factors. Some red factors are fed a food additive called canthaxanthin which helps keep the red vibrant. Type canaries are bred to have a certain "look." Common ones include the Gloster, with its Beatles-style haircut, the elongated Belgian fancy, and the frilly look of the appropriately named frills, which include Parisians, Padovans and the Gibber Italicus. Song canaries include rollers, waterslagers and American singers. Some song canaries sing as part of a group, while others sing individually.

3 Canary Hens

The American Singer


Breeding Canaries

Canaries are more demanding than budgies in their feeding and husbandry requirements during the breeding season. With a bit of time and care, breeding this species can be very rewarding. The whole process from egg laying to the time chicks become fully independent takes around two months.


It is usually recommended to breed canaries in cages rather than in an aviary. In order to minimize disturbance to the breeding pair, the cage should not be positioned facing any other birds. Ideally, breeding cages should have a removable mesh partition down the middle. This partition allows the male to feed the female during courtship and keeps the couples separate until they are ready to mate.

Sexing Male canaries are distinguished from females by the intensity and volume of their singing. Both the volume and intensity increase as they reach peak breeding condition. Females do not produce the same melodious song as males. Timing In the northern hemisphere, canaries reach their breeding condition in mid-March. It is good to introduce nesting boxes and other materials at this particular time, Nesting Canaries nest in open topped pans which can be made of metal, plastic or earthenware. The nesting pans should be lined with a soft material such as felt. In order for the female to weave the nest, additional nesting materials must also be provided. Suitable materials are shredded tissue paper, cat hair, hay, moss, cotton wool or rags. The strands of the nesting material must be short so that the bird's feet do not become entangled. Egg Laying On the average, canaries lay 4 or 5 eggs, although numbers can range from 2 to 6. The eggs are laid one a day, or every other day, and always early in the morning. Canary eggs are pale blue with tiny brown specks. If canary eggs were allowed to hatch out in the order they were laid, the chicks within the nest would be at different stages of Development. In order to avoid this situation, the eggs are generally removed from the nest during the laying period and only replaced when the clutch is complete. Each egg is removed from the nest at around noon on the day that it is laid and replaced with a dummy egg that can be purchased in pet shops. Once the eggs are removed, they can be kept on cotton wool at room temperature for up to two weeks. Once the hen has stopped laying, the eggs can be replaced in the nest and the dummy eggs removed. At this point, incubation begins and lasts 13 - 14 days. Diet Females can be fed soft food for a few weeks prior to breeding and throughout the breeding season. A number of commercial rearing or conditioning soft foods are available, although many breeders prefer to make up their own mixtures from a variety of ingredients. Cuttlefish bone and grit are important calcium sources and should be freely available during the breeding period.



Care of the Young

Canaries are born naked and blind. In the nest, they are totally dependant upon their parents for food. They leave the nest around 16 days of age and begin to feed themselves.Soft rearing food can be introduced to the young on the second day after hatching.Occasionally, the male canary will attack the young; therefore, the parents should be watched during the rearing period. Chicks can be removed from the parents when they are fully able to feed themselves. This occurs when chicks are approximately 25-30 days old.

Pet Chinchilla Care Guide

Chinchillas - are rodents, characterized by their large hind feet, compact bodies, soft dense fur, large eyes and ears, long whiskers and bushy tails. Chinchilla lanigera, with a longer tail, is the most common pet species, while Chinchilla brevicaudata has a very short tail. The chinchilla’s natural environment is the semi-arid rocky slopes of the Andes Mountains in South America. Dr. K., treats Chinchillas and other exotic pets at Raymond Ave Veterinary Hospital.

Pet Appeal/Behavior

  • Affectionate, intelligent, charming personalities.
  • Bond quickly to their owners.
  • Hardy and suffer few illnesses.

Chinchillas can make great pets, because they are easy to care for, have very little odor and rarely bite.

  • Dogs, cats and ferrets are predators.
  • Basically nocturnal, they may be active during the day.
  • They need at least 30 min/day for exercise and play.
  • They are often difficult to litter-train (fecal).

Sexing and Reproduction

  • The anogenital distance in males is about twice as long as females.
  • Male chinchillas do not have a scrotom, and the testes remain primarily in the inguinal canal or abdominal cavity.
  • There are two small moveable sacs next to the anus (post-anal sacs) into which the caudal epididymis can drop.
  • In females, the anus is immediately caudal to the relatively large cone-shaped urethral papilla.
  • The female vagina is normally sealed by a membrane except during estrus (3-5 days) and parturition.
  • If a female chinchilla is not bred at a young age, its pelvis will fuse and it may have difficulty giving birth later.
  • An open vulva, often with visible mucus, is an external indication of estrus.

Housing

  • House individually, in pairs or in a polygamous group with a single male and 2-4 females.
  • Cage should be at least 3 x 2 x 2 feet (90 x 60 x 60 cm), constructed from wood and mesh wire.
  • Use pine litter for substrate (avoid cedar as it is toxic).
  • Chinchillas need climbing ares, a dust box and a sleeping box in an upper corner.
  • Dust baths help chinchillas keep clean without becoming chilled. Chinchillas should be allowed to roll in the dust material (about 2-3” [8-10cm] deep) for 10 to 15 minutes several times per week.
  • Temperatures higher than 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees Celsius) can be result in heat stroke. Optimal temperatures are 50-68 degrees Fahrenheit (10-20 degrees Celsius).

Diet

  • Commercial chinchilla pellets, water and unlimited timothy hay provide an adequate diet.
  • Chinchillas can thrive on a mixture of grass (timothy, brome, and oat) and legume (alfalfa) hays.
  • Adults require 1-2 Tbs of pellets daily.
  • Sugary treats, such as raisins or dried apples, and fatty foods, such as sunflower seeds or peanuts, should be avoided.

Restraint

  • Lift the Chinchilla by supporting the body with one hand under the abdomen and holes the animals by the base of the tail close to the body with the other hand.
  • The chinchilla can also be placed on the arm.
  • A chinchilla should be restrained gently to avoid “fur slip.”
  • Chinchilla may bite if restrained against their will.

Blood Collection

  • IV: 25-28 ga needles in lateral saphenous or cephalic vein
  • IM: 23-25 ga needle in quadriceps, gluteals; max. Volume 0.3 ml per single site/adult
  • SC: 23 ga under skin, neck or flank; be careful of “fur slip”
  • IP: Hind limb should be extended with animal restrained, introduce 23 ga needle or smaller along the line of the leg into the center of the posterior quadrant of the abdomen; up to 10 ml fluid can be given.

Physical Examination

  • Annual veterinary visits should include a physical exam and review of the diet and husbandry.
  • The need for fecal analysis and blood hematology and chemistry should be discussed.
  • Bi-annual or quarterly examinations to assess weight, dental health, nail trim trimming and overall health are recommended.

Most Common Disorders

  • Dermatophytosis
  • Trauma (broken bones, bite wounds)
  • Diarrhea/constipation
  • Respitory disorders
  • Eye irritation/conjunctivitis
  • Convulsions/encephalitis/lead poisoning
  • Malocclusion/molar spurs
  • Penile hair rings in males/paraphimosis
  • “Fur-barbering” from stress
  • Heat stroke
  • Esophageal choke
  • GI stasis/bloat
  • Cardiomypathy
  • Rectal proplapse
  • Giardiasis

Zoonotic Potential

  • Listeria monocytogenes
  • Lymphocytic choriomeningitis virus (LCMV)
  • Dermatophytosis
  • Baylisascaris procyonis